Trattoria dei Bracconieri - a different way to spend a day on Lake Como

 

 

 

The great thing about living in a city like Milan is its proximity to so many beautiful and interesting places. And although Milan may not be considered as beautiful as other Italian towns and cities, it makes up for its looks with lots of glamour and its strategic positioning: whether you are into nature, history, architecture, art or just plain good food, when visiting Milan all you have to do is pick.

The Alps (some of the most beautiful mountains in the world), Italy's three most impressive lakes (Como, Maggiore, Garda), lovely cities (Brescia, Como, Bergamo, Turin, Mantova, Venice, Bologna) and stunning coasts (Portofino, Cinque Terre)  are just a short drive away. Not to mention the proximity of Tuscany and Rome and several European countries (France, Switzerland, Austria, Germany, Slovenia, Croatia) if you have a couple of days to spare.

 

 

When it comes to food, Milan has a lot to boast too: Michelin-starred restaurants, historical eateries, places you go to see and be seen; but I figure that if you are reading a food blog and you are planning a trip over, you probably have already researched and easily found all the information you need.

 

 

 

This is the main reason I don't blog about restaurants very often. This and the fact that I have two little ones, which have somewhat diminished my fancy dining experiences of late. So when I do write about a place they are usually places in the area that I discover with my family: good food, reasonable prices, child-friendly (which doesn't per se mean they are full of loud, screaming children - just that they are casual enough to bring children), the kind of place you will not find in a guide or that your hotel will most likely not recommend because they simply aren't on the radar. I tell you about the kind of off-the-beaten-track places I would like to know about when I travel.

 

 

 

Last week we took an American friend who was staying with us to Como. It had been raining for days when he arrived and because it is the middle of winter, it did not seem like the best time to take a boat ride to see the famous and impressive villas that surround the lake. Our plan was to take him to the city that has become the lake's namesake, Como, a town whose historical wealth (thanks to silk manufacturing and because it is a border town) is reflected in its opulent architecture, definitely worth seeing.

We however wanted our friend to be able to admire the beauty of the lake so we decided to take the funicular up to the town of Brunate, a place none of us had ever been. After a little research we found a place that perfectly suited our  needs: a simple, rustic trattoria. A place that offered a view and, according to comments on Tripadvisor, not bad, overpriced food for tourists.

Brasato or braised beef

I did it. I went out and 'bought me' a Le Creuset for Christmas. Well, to be honest my in-laws contributed greatly with a Christmas envelope, otherwise I probably wouldn't have treated myself to one just yet, but I am now the proud owner of a big 'n' heavy cast iron enamelled French pot to play around and experiment with.

The experiments have begun. I am pretty much into throwing anything I can get my hands on in there and slow cooking it for hours until it gets all soft and melty. Yes, I'm talkin' to you, slabs of meat, bags of beans, greens. Watch out, you plump little children running around my kitchen! Beware when the orange pot is sitting on the stove, for I may grab you and make you for supper! You shall not fool me by sticking bones through your cage, for my eyesight is pretty good (thank you B&L disposable contact lenses) and I know a dimply finger when I see one.

My first attempt at a stew was successful but in the excitement of the moment I forgot to take a picture of the finished dish. My second attempt was just as good (I will say so myself since the pot and meat get all the merit) and this time I remembered to take a few pics. In this cold weather I just cannot get enough, so get ready to read a lot of recipes for stews, soups and braised meats.

Adapted from the Joy of Cooking

Ingredients

cut of beef approx. 3-5 lbs

1/2 cup chopped carrots

1/2 cup chopped celery

2 cups chopped onions

1 cup red wine, stock or other braising liquid + additional as needed

flour

olive oil

salt

pepper

bay leaf

I usually buy my meat at the supermarket since the quality of meat in supermarkets is usually pretty good here. On the label it tells you the best way to cook the meat you are buying. I chose a cut that was good for boiling or braising. These cuts are usually cheap because they are tough if not cooked slowly. Make sure you buy a piece that has marbling and connective tissue. The way you cook the meat will break down this tissue, making the meat tender and moist.

Pour some olive oil into your pot and then, after having accurately dried your cut of meat and seasoned it with pepper and salt, brown it on all sides, making sure you sear in all the good juices. Once it has browned nicely, set it aside on a plate and pour out the fat, keeping approximately two tbsp in the pot. Sauté the chopped vegetables until they soften and turn slightly golden. Pour in the cup of cooking liquid and drop in a bay leaf. Let cook for a couple of minutes and then add in the meat. It should not be covered more than halfway. Bring the liquid to a boil and lower the heat. Cover the pot with a tight lid and cook for up to 3 or 4 hours, according to the size of your cut, turning it about every half hour and making sure the liquid doesn't dry out. It should cook on very low heat, the liquid just barely simmering. If it gets dry add a little liquid. When it is fork tender it is ready, keep in mind it is possible to overcook when braising despite the general idea of "the more the better". You don't want your meat to turn stringy and dry. Take out the meat and the bay leaf, squash the vegetables with a fork (or strain the sauce if you have texture issues), add a little flour and butter and let the liquid thicken into a gravy, adding seasoning if needed. In the meantime, once the meat has cooled down, slice thinly and then serve with its sauce. I served polenta alongside.